The Quilted Rose
       
Gammill
Longarm Quilting Machines
and
longarm quilting supplies

Trouble Shooting your Gammill
Always unplug your
machine before any adjustments are made!
- Keep your machine well oiled and clean. Remember
to oil the area behind the inspection plate on the left hand side of
your machine every four months.
- If your machine is hard to move, check your
wheels for thread and clean your tracks with the Zippy Track
Cleaner.
- Check the threading of your machine before you
make any adjustments. Always us a good quality thread. If you live in
an area of extreme hot and dry to cool and damp, check your thread before
sewing. Your thread may have dried out and will need to be hydrated.
- If you are having problems think back to the
last adjustment you made on your machine. Go back and make sure that
you made the adjustment properly.
- A needle in backwards in the most frequent call.
Skipping Stitches
1. Needle is bent, dull, or the needle has a burr
on it. (change needle)
2. Lint under the throat plate, check wick in the back of the hook for
lint.
3. Check spring has groove worn by thread at the point the thread passes
over the spring. Thread will catch at the point and cause a skipped stitch.
Check spring should be at 11 O' Clock.
4. Check spring should not touch any part of the tension mechanism while
moving up and down. Thread your machine and pull on the thread to check.
5. You may have your fabric too tight on the rollers.
6. Upper tension may be too tight.
7. Rethread your machine.
8. Use a high quality thread.
9. Check your hook for burrs by running a piece of nylon stocking around
the hook. The nylon will catch on the burr. Buff the burr out with a piece
of emery cloth. Note: you may need to replace the hook.
10. Check the timing.
11. Plus Machines - Check the encoder O rings for cracks. If it is cracked,
install a new O-ring.
12. Take-up roller may be too high. You should have a fingers width between
roller and machine.
Tensions
Top Thread Flat
1. Oil and clean your machine.
2. Your bobbin may not be threaded correctly.
3. Lint on your thread guides and between tension discs.
4. You may need a new rotary tension disc, your thread may have worn a
groove in the disc for thread to catch in.
5. Rethread your machine. Pay attention to the rotary tension disc, thread
often will get wrapped around it incorrectly.
6. Clean your bobbin case behind the Anti-back last spring and the Top
tension spring. It's a good idea to keep an extra bobbin case on hand.
7. Tension too tight.
8. Bobbin case has very little tension it should drop with just the slightest
of tension. If your bobbin is too tight, you will never get good tension.
9. Your bobbin should be wound tight. Soft bobbins do not make a good
tension. External bobbin winders are recommended. Bobbins shouldn't be
wound too full.
10. Refer to the tension chart in your Training Manual for proper tensions.
11. Center thread cone under first thread guide.
12. Check the condition of the cone of thread, if the cone has been dropped,
it may have a flat edge. This will make it more difficult for the machine
to feed the thread properly. The thread will hang up on the compressed
portion of the cone.
13. Put a sock on the cone of thread, this will help the thread feed to
the machine evenly.
Please visit Linda's Electric Quilters for excellent pictures on adjusting
tensions.
http://www.lequilters.com/maintenance.html
Lower Thread Flat
1. Oil and clean your machine.
2. Bobbin case too tight, the bobbin case should have very little tension
and should drop with the slightest of tension. If your bobbin case has
too much tension you will not have a good stitch.
3. Tighten upper tension after bottom tension is adjusted.
4. Lint on the thread guides and between tension discs.
5. Clean out your bobbin case behind the Anti-back lash spring and the
top tension spring. It's a good idea to keep an extra bobbin case on hand.
6. Rethread your machine. Pay attention to the rotary tension disc, thread
can get wrapped around it incorrectly.
7. You may need a new rotary tension disc; your thread may have worn a
groove in the disc for thread to catch in.
8. Your bobbin should be wound tight soft bobbins do not make good tension.
External bobbin winders are recommended.
9. Refer to the tension chart in your Quilted Rose Training Manual for
proper tensions.
Loops on Bottom of Your Quilt
1. A loop is caused by any interruption in the flow of thread. Thread
should flow smoothly through your machine.
2. Increase the tension of your check spring, turn a quarter turn to the
right. Test your stitch, increase another quarter turn if necessary to
accomplish a good stitch.
3. Check spring should not touch any part of the tension mechanism while
moving up and down. Thread your machine and pull on the thread to check.
4. Rotary tension disc too tight, the thread should move the tension disc.
The thread shouldn't move around the disc while the disc is in a stationary
position.
5. Lint on the thread guides and between tension discs.
6. Clean out your bobbin case behind the Anti-back lash spring and the
Top Tension spring. It's a good idea to keep an extra bobbin on hand.
7. Check Anti-back lash spring for burrs thread can catch on a burr and
break thread or cause a loop.
8. Rethread your machine. Pay attention to the rotary tension disc, thread
often will get wrapped around it incorrectly.
9. You may have your fabric too tight on the machine.
10. Tighten upper thread tension after bobbin tension is adjusted.
11. Rethread your machine. Pay attention to the rotary tension disc, thread
often will get wrapped around it incorrectly.
12. Check your hook for burrs by running a piece of nylon stocking around
the hook. The nylon will catch on the burr. Buff the burr out with a piece
of emery cloth. Note: you may need to replace the hook.
13. Remove the rocking finger below the hook, when the rocking finger
is not timed properly for the type of thread you are using, it will grab
the thread and cause a loop.
14. Loosen fabric rotter.
15. Put a sock on your cone of thread. This wil help the thread feed to
the machine evenly.
16. Make sure the needle positioner has not slipped out of it's slot.
It should be about half way in the slot on the hook. The needle positioner
hold the hook in place so the hook can't rotate by itself. If the needle
positioner is too close to the hook the thread will get hung up in the
slot and cause loops.
Thread Breaking or Fraying
1. Clean and oil your machine.
2. Replace your needle
3. Loosen fabric roller.
4. Check spring should be at 11 o'clock.
5. Lint under the throat plate, check wick in the back of the hook for
lint.
6. Rethread your machine. Pay attention to the rotary tension disc, thread
often will get wrapped around it incorrectly.
7. One of the most common causes of thread breaking is old or dried out
thread that needs to be hydrated. Put the thread in a zip lock bag with
a damp paper towel in the freezer over night.
8. Too small of a needle for the size thread you are using.
9. Upper tension too tight.
10. The smaller needle you use, the more flex the neelde has and the easier
it will break. MR 3.0 will break easier than a MR 3.5.
11. Check your hook for burrs by running a piece of nylon stocking around
the hook. The nylon will catch on the burr. Buff the burr out with a piece
of emery cloth. Note: you may need to replace the hook.
Breaking Needles
1. Is your needle in correctly, and are you using the correct size of
needle for your project.
2. If you have struck a needle or foreign object, and iif you have, check
the timing.
3. Make sure the needle positioner has not slipped out of it's slot. It
should be about half way in the slot of the hook. The needle positioner
holds the hook in place so the hook can't rotate by itself.
4. Is your needle bar in the correct position? Can you see the entire
eye of the needle in the lowest postion; no more, no less.
Threads
1. Use the same weight thread on the top and the bottom of the quilt.
The same color thread gives a very balanced stitch.
2. Old or dried out thread may need to be hydrated. Put thread in a zip
lock bag with a damp paper towel in the freezer over night.
3. Use the correct size needle for the size of thread that you are using.
4. Make sure that your bobbin isn't too full. If the bobbin is over full,
it will rub against the bobbin case and cause the tension to be off until
the bobbin empties to the point it is not rubbing on the case.
5. Remove the rocking finger below the hook. When the rocking finger is
not timed properly for the type of thread you are using, it will grab
the thread and cause a loop.
Thread Jams
1. A thread jam most of the time is caused by not pulling up your thread
when you begin to sew. Don't panic; take the throat plate off and remove
as much thread as you can. If the machine is still jammed, saturate the
hook will oil and let it sit for a few minutes. Rock the fly wheel on
the back of the machine until the jam is free. Repeat if necesary. After
the jam is free, don't forget to wipe down your machine of the excess
oil. When you put the throat plate back on, remember to center the needle
in the hole of the throat plate.
2. When you oil behind your inspection plate on the left hand side of
the machine, check each immediate side of the fly wheel for thread. Remove
thread, a tweezer seems to work out best. Oiling should be done every
four month.
About the Cross Track
There are two set of wheels, the machine wheels and the carriage wheels.
There are four wheels on the back of the carriage; the two inner wheels
do not touch the track, they are used to park your machine. The outside
wheels drop off the side of your machine stand to park the machine head.
Clean your machine tracks and carriage tracks at the end of each day with
your Zippy Track Cleaner.
Motor Brush Cleaning
Please visit Accomplished Quilting for excellent pictures
on how to clean Motor Brushes.
http://www.accomplishquilting.com/maintenance.html
If you have any questions about any of the above proceedures, please
call us for clarification. We will be happy to help!
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